Fasching in Ulm, Bavaria, Germany, 1987

The kids seemed … kind of angry. Germany is a complex culture, no part more so than Bavaria, which for a prosperous region acts strangely put upon. The Bavarians seem to say “We’re Catholic and Greens and traditional,” yet everyone seemed to drive a Mercedes, even as a second car, and only students drove Volkswagens. But that was 1987, when I didn’t speak any German. I had come over from Paris to see a friend, who drove an Opel she called Oscar.

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